With no hard feelings

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It has been said that divorce is the psychological equivalent of a triple coronary bypass.  Excepting the legal profession there certainly are no winners, particularly at the ragged end of a 30+ year marriage.

Ranked just below the death of a child (and slightly above imprisonment) on the Stress Scale, divorce turns your emotions into a pinball that careens through the Kübler-Ross Stages of Grief … Bing – Denial … Bing-Bing – Anger … Bing-Bing-Bing  – Denial  … TILT– Depression … until one fine day you come to Acceptance.

At its darkest it’s hard to write so much as a letter, never mind read a book or listen to a podcast. Yet solace can be found.  For most of us there’s music. And the tortuous season of ‘decree nisi’ is a fine time to dust off your record collection and open your ears to new discovery.

For me this includes the Americana Revival trend, in which a new generation of musicians (who in previous decades may have gone the garage band route) has discovered the country, folk, blues, and gospel traditions of the early 20th century and made them contemporary.

Fitting in nicely are a couple of brothers who were raised in a musical household in Concord, NC. Seth and Scott Avett have performed for 20 years as the Avett Brothers, through countless gigs and ten record albums (and counting), including their 2016 release (and just the ticket for a plaintive soul) True Sadness. 

In fact, after going through one himself, younger brother, Seth even wrote a track about my very predicament, Divorce Separation Blues“It’s such a weird thing that divorce is so common and so rare in songs,” he said in an HBO documentary. “Breakup is rampant in songwriting, but Divorce in particular, is barely mentioned.”  Oh yes, more divorce songs please.

Still, the most moving number on True Sadness is all about redemption. And in a situation where hard feelings continue, it makes for a fine aspiration.

No Hard Feelings

When my body won’t hold me anymore
And it finally lets me free
Will I be ready?
When my feet won’t walk another mile
And my lips give their last kiss goodbye
Will my hands be steady?

When I lay down my fears
My hopes and my doubts
The rings on my fingers
And the keys to my house
With no hard feelings

When the sun hangs low in the west
And the light in my chest
Won’t be kept held at bay any longer
When the jealousy fades away
And it’s ash and dust for cash and lust
And it’s just hallelujah
And love in thoughts and love in the words
Love in the songs they sing in the church
And no hard feelings

Lord knows they haven’t done
Much good for anyone
Kept me afraid and cold
With so much to have and hold
When my body won’t hold me anymore
And it finally lets me free
Where will I go?
Will the trade winds take me south
Through Georgia grain or tropical rain
Or snow from the heavens?

Will I join with the ocean blue
Or run into the savior true
And shake hands laughing
And walk through the night
Straight to the light
Holding the love I’ve known in my life
And no hard feelings

Lord knows they haven’t done
Much good for anyone
Kept me afraid and cold
With so much to have and hold
Under the curving sky
I’m finally learning why
It matters for me and you
To say it and mean it too
For life and its loveliness
And all of its ugliness
Good as it’s been to me
I have no enemies
I have no enemies
I have no enemies
I have no enemies

Looking from a window above, it’s like a story of love

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Bless those episodic memories. Those vivid recollections summoned by something as simple as a song like this, the UK’s Christmas Number One in 1983.

And so you return to an age of nimbleness. A bow, a curtsy, a roguish grin… a wildly interpretive minuet. While you reach for the soul of the one before you. And candidly croon, “Only you.”

Only You

Looking from a window above
It’s like a story of love
Can you hear me?
Came back only yesterday
Moving further away
Won’t you hear me?

All I needed was the love you gave
All I needed for another day
All I ever knew
Only you

Sometimes when I think of your name
And it’s only a game
And I need you.
Listening to the words that you say
Getting harder to stay
When I see you.

All I needed was the love you gave
All I needed for another day
All I ever knew
Only you

This is gonna take a long time
And I wonder what’s mine
Can’t take no more.
Wonder if you’ll understand
It’s just the touch of your hand
Behind a closed door.

All I needed was the love you gave
All I needed for another day
All I ever knew
Only you

Written by Vince Clarke and (with Alison Moyet) recorded by Yazoo, the song was a British hit in 1982. But it was this, the Flying Pickets’ a cappella version, that does the time travelin’.

 

And how does it feel one more time?

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There are those of us who – when we fall – fall spectacularly.

I used to lodge in a South London townhouse where my friends, Ann and Hans kindly allowed me to use the shed at the bottom of their garden.

This was my writing hut.

With awning windows that opened to sultry air and sunlight, and a corrugated roof that drove off the more brazen elements, there was ample room for a desk, a bookcase, and – as a place for my (since forsaken) pipe collection – an art nouveau sideboard.

The paraffin heater may have been useless but through clever wiring there was 220-voltage for an archaic Adler Electric typewriter, a battered radio, and my Gaggia espresso machine.

While some months were flusher than others (as evidenced by the growing collection of rejection slips papered to the walls) my writer’s hut never lost the aroma of sweet Cavendish tobacco and bitter ristrettos.

In early, out late, the merry spin of the grindstone was nonetheless rivaled by that of the social calendar.  Ann and Hans could be sociable, as could I, and the parties were legendary.

Unquestionably that was the promise one May day when a British Bank Holiday happened to correspond with a certain shipment from Germany.

Ländle-born Hans had a friend who drove a lorry and he was arriving by ferry with a 30-litre keg of Pilsner, a 20-litre keg of Special Bock, and 100 Thüringer sausages. What better way to celebrate the onset of spring than a garden party with 50 of your chummiest chums?

And what a day it was. The sun was shining, the grill glowing, the beer strong. Everyone was in rare spirits.  I just had to get a picture.

As I’d often done, I climbed on top of the shed and raised my camera. Then ‘C-R-A-S-H’ the asbestos roofing shattered like a pane of glass. Rather discomfiting in front of all your guests who, as I could now see through the windows, were rushing my way.

Then I noticed the blood. No hiding it, I’d nicked an artery right between my eyes and it was spurting like a squirt gun with every beat of my heart.

“Just a flesh wound,” I tried to usher everyone back to the party. “Isn’t it time we tapped that Special Bock?”

Hans wasn’t buying.  “Winnie, just look at your clothes.”  My white linen jacket was streaked with red. Dammit. I pulled it off.

Then someone ran up with a dishcloth to staunch the bleeding and someone else appeared with a raincoat from the closet. “Put it on, Winnie. You’ve got to stay warm.”

I put it on and reached for another beer.  “Not until you’ve been to Urgent Care,” Ann took the glass from my hand while Hans led me to his car for the short drive to St. George’s Hospital.

As far as I’m concerned a loss of control is the main ingredient of a Bad Day and this was swiftly becoming an epic one.

Accidents are embarrassing.  Worse still the party was reaching its stride while – tick, tick, tick – poor Hans and I were wasting away in triage.

Dayzz 1

“How many beers? No anesthesia for you,” the physician finally fixed that jagged poke with some stitches.

We made our triumphant return just after dusk. No more sausages. No more pilsner. The party had moved inside. But there was still plenty of that Special Bock and, lo, it was having a jolly effect.

Normally a distinguished concert pianist, Santiago was performing a headstand in the corner to demonstrate how to properly consume a pint upside down. Naturally some of us had to follow suit. And – pain, what pain? – so descended another celebration.

The next afternoon while “scratching my head to Strasbourg” I forked out £50 for the latest in corrugated, polycarbonate, see-through roofing.

And for the rest of the time I occupied that space I’d spare a moment to look at the stars or watch the rain falling from above.  Not that my writing got any better.

Over 30 years on and the scar’s still there; a subtle reminder that like all else under the sun bad days never last.  In fact sometimes they barely make it past dusk.

Bad Day

Written and recorded by Canadian singer Daniel Powter in 2002, it wasn’t until 2004 that “Bad Day” was finally released … for use in a French Coca-Cola commercial.  After that Warner Brothers offered Powter a contract and – “Where is the moment when we need it the most?” – in 2005 the track became the lead single from his eponymous debut album.

Where is the moment when we need it the most?
You kick up the leaves, and the magic is lost
They tell me your blue sky’s faded to gray
They tell me your passion’s gone away
And I don’t need no carrying on

You stand in the line just to hit a new low
You’re faking a smile with the coffee to go
You tell me your life’s been way off line
You’re falling to pieces every time
And I don’t need no carrying on

‘Cause you had a bad day
You’re taking one down
You sing a sad song just to turn it around
You say you don’t know
You tell me don’t lie
You work at a smile, and you go for a ride
You had a bad day
The camera don’t lie
You’re coming back down, and you really don’t mind
You had a bad day
You had a bad day

Well you need a blue-sky holiday
The point is they laugh at what you say
And I don’t need no carrying on

You had a bad day
You’re taking one down
You sing a sad song just to turn it around
You say you don’t know
You tell me don’t lie
You work at a smile, and you go for a ride
You had a bad day
The camera don’t lie
You’re coming back down and you really don’t mind
You had a bad day

Sometimes the system goes on the blink, and the whole thing it turns out wrong

You might not make it back and you know that you should be well, oh, that Strong

And I’m not wrong

So where is the passion when you need it the most?
Oh, you and I
You kick up the leaves and the magic is lost

‘Cause you had a bad day
You’re taking one down
You sing a sad song just to turn it around
You say you don’t know
You tell me don’t lie
You work at a smile and you go for a ride
You had a bad day
You see what you like
And how does it feel one more time?
You had a bad day
You had a bad day

Had a bad day, had a bad day, had a bad day

It’s A Long Way Down The Holiday Road

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How far down? I found out long ago – July 1981 to be exact – while travelling on and off around Thailand with Brooke, the general’s daughter.

We’d reconnected in the northern city of Chiang Mai where she regaled me about her wild adventures in Pattaya with an Englishman named Bruce.  “He’ll be flying up in a few days.”

“Great. The more the merrier.” In the meantime there were tours to be taken.

First we saw elephants at work in a traditional mountain setting, followed by an elephant ride on a traditional saddle sofa, and a visit to a traditional silk factory. Then we toured a traditional village where they practiced traditional Thai woodcarving and made traditional lacquered umbrellas.

By the time Bruce arrived I’d had my fill, and suggested renting a car for a bit of a looksee around the Golden Triangle (at the convergence of Laos and Burma) where the hills were alive with opium production and heroin smuggling. A far cry from a package tour, it was still the traditional thing to do.

In Thailand the traffic flows to the left. Somewhat giddy about shifting and driving with the wheel on the right – a first – I hadn’t thought through the ramifications of leaving my passport with the rental agency as collateral. As if it would have mattered anyway.

The mist-shrouded mountains and water buffalo-ploughed paddies along Route 118 certainly looked authentic. And the two-lane blacktop led us all the way to Mae Sai, the most northerly point in Thailand, where a bridge crossed into Burma.

Though the border was closed we managed to lay our hands on some Burmese cheroots, which, Bruce asserted, were all the rage in the days of the Raj. Better than any stogies I ever tried.

A bright spark who wore his university education like a rugby scarf, Bruce was quite enamored of Brooke (more than she was of him, alas) and between trying to bounce one another off an old rope bridge that stretched over the Mae Kok River and downing another round of Singhais at yet another roadside establishment we all got pretty chummy.

None of us expected to tiptoe through any poppies, of course.  Nor were we especially keen to meet up with any heroin smugglers.

Back on the road by dusk I was puffing like a Raja behind the wheel while Brooke and Bruce snoozed in the back seat, when a random checkpoint came into view.

A far different world from the last time this happened, the song remained the same. A soldier raised his M-16 and I hit the brakes.

Clearly expecting me to produce a passport, he wasn’t impressed with my rental agreement. Not sharing a common language didn’t help and he grew visibly irritated. Then, with the assault rifle dangling from his shoulder, he turned to my awakening friends in the back.

It was dark, they were groggy and it took some time to get oriented. Meanwhile the incensed soldier began to lean in through the window and over the seatback … while the weapon’s muzzle became firmly implanted in my throat.

“Um, Brooke, can you see what’s happening here?” I softly articulated.

“Just a minute, we’re looking for our… Holy shit!”

Now she understood. “Winslow,” she said evenly, while making sure she wasn’t in the line of fire behind me, “we’re handing over our passports now.”

But hers was American, his was British, and this only confused things further. Worlds have formed and died away in the time it took for that careless soldier to hand back those passports and remove that fucking gun from my throat.

Pointing to the back of the car he indicated for me to open the trunk. Gladly. Finally he waved us on and I relit my cheroot.

But sometimes adrenalin rushes come in tandem.

The road now passed through lush jungle, black as pitch after dark. With hours to go I watched the fuel gauge sink below the eighth of a tank mark.  Casually pointing it out to the others I succumbed to the urge to accelerate.

“Winslow, I don’t think we’ll make it at any speed,” Bruce opined.

Although I preferred not to, I had to agree with him. The problem was a lack of gas stations, that and the fact that – beyond the occasional road marker for ‘118’ – none of us had a clue where we actually were.

Eventually we rolled into a tiny “settlement” (its origins undoubtedly dating back to some ancient dynasty) and located a drinking establishment. I only wish every transaction were as simple as what happened next.

The proprietor, who spoke little English but understood the word “petrol” had a quiet word with one of the patrons, who looked me in the eye and used the tip of his finger to trace ‘500’ on the bar. Then he gestured for me, but not Brooke and Bruce, to join him outside.

Out by the car I handed him a 500 baht note, somewhere around $15. And signaling for me to follow with my head lights off (!) he led the way on foot down an alleyway, past some houses, to a riverside shack where I could just make out some fuel barrels in the ambient light.

After unscrewing the gas cap he began to fill the tank by cranking an iron hand pump. How full? Who knows. This was black market stuff (in the dark no less) and three or four gallons would get me where I wanted to go.

Back at the bar/cafe Brooke and Bruce finished up a quick drink while I shook the proprietor’s hand in gratitude.

“Winslow, I think he expects a tip,” Brooke gave me a nudge. “Mind if we settle up later?”

Later worked. I palmed a couple hundred more baht and shook the man’s hand once more.  This time he nodded, smiled, and we were on our merry way.

Though a little light on his lyrical ability Lindsey Buckingham of Fleetwood Mac fame is a master on the guitar, keyboards, percussion, and vocals, all on display on this, the song he wrote and recorded for 1983’s National Lampoon’s Vacation. Assuredly, the man knows his holiday roads.

Holiday Road

I found out long ago
It’s a long way down the holiday road
Holiday road
Holiday road
Holiday road

Jack be nimble, Jack be quick

Take a ride on the West Coast kick
Holiday road
Holiday road
Holiday road
Holiday road

I found out long ago
It’s a long way down the holiday road
Holiday road
Holiday road
Holiday road
Holiday road

I’m going to make this place your home

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It was another venturesome invocation. If mind, body, and powers of persuasion were no longer on the ascent at age 30, they weren’t yet on the wane. So I convinced my bride to pick up stakes and move to Canada.

Not so much about leaving as arriving, it had the hallmarks of a grownup decision. A job was involved.

But deep down it was really about the challenge and adventure of crossing the Niagara Frontier to see if we could alter our accents, and toast the Queen, and blend-in anew.  Hand in hand it was one last leap of faith before the rest of our lives caught up with us…

HOME

(Sung by Phillip Phillips, Written by Drew Pearson/Greg Holden)

Hold on, to me as we go
As we roll down this unfamiliar road
And although this wave is stringing us along
Just know you’re not alone
‘Cause I’m going to make this place your home

Settle down, it’ll all be clear
Don’t pay no mind to the demons
They fill you with fear
The trouble it might drag you down
If you get lost, you can always be found

Just know you’re not alone
‘Cause I’m going to make this place your home

Settle down, it’ll all be clear
Don’t pay no mind to the demons
They fill you with fear
The trouble it might drag you down
If you get lost, you can always be found

Just know you’re not alone
‘Cause I’m going to make this place your home

Whammer Jammer

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Little used for the better part of a decade, we called it Godwin, the 1980 Oldsmobile Brougham Sedan that my Dad signed-over as a wedding present. And once the lines and hoses had been checked, the gaskets replaced, the front plate – that said Let Me Tell You About My Grandchildren – set aside, it was the perfect vehicle for an awesomely harrowing commute.

Paying the price in worn rotors, ball joints and brake pads, Godwin made it through two metropolitan rush hours each day, from Old Town Alexandria, south of Washington, to Hunt Valley, north of Baltimore, in around 90 minutes. Put to music with an immense 7-Eleven coffee in your cup holder, it’s not hard to imagine Magic Dick (J. Geils’ harmonica player) riding shotgun on any given weekday in the fall of ’88.

First you cruise south down the George Washington Parkway, then east on the Capital Beltway over the Woodrow Wilson Bridge. Then, foot-decisively-on-gas, you exit for that topsy-turvy, white knuckle ride up the shoulderless Anacostia Freeway through notorious – as in the highest murder rate in America and lately they’ve been favoring automatic weapons – Southeast Washington, DC.

Bumpy, poorly maintained, occasionally desolate, you get used to it. It’s the most direct route and at least the morning drive isn’t in the dark. Soon enough you’re driving north on Kenilworth Avenue into leafy P.G. County, while the rest of the world heads south, then over the Capital Beltway and onto the Baltimore-Washington Parkway.

In an age before texting (and barring the occasional idiot) it’s full-bore fast-lane sailing for another 30 miles until Godwin crosses under the Baltimore Beltway and, with the Bromo-Seltzer Tower dead ahead, into the very heart of Charm City. Someday this cluttered expanse around Russell Street will feature Oriole Park and M&T Stadium, but today it’s simply the Camden Industrial Park.

Time to pay attention. Right at the light onto Pratt, past the Inner Harbor, left on Gay, right on Baltimore Street, then left onto the elevated Jones Falls Expressway. Now go ahead and mash that thing. Chewing up the 10 miles of JFX pavement in 7 ½ minutes is a cinch as long as you brake before the Beltway. That’s where the Troopers lie in wait.

Go east for an exit, then north for another three, up the Baltimore-Harrisburg Expressway to Shawan Road and your destination, Executive Plaza III just off the ramp. Sixty-five miles on and totally amped, your day’s work awaits you, as does your evening commute.

Released in 1971, Whammer Jammer is the second track off the J. Geils Band’s second album, The Morning After. Little wonder that it’s far more enduring than poor Godwin.

When we traded it in a few years later, I asked the salesman what they’d do with it. “I dunno,” he shrugged. “Probably a demolition derby…” Never mind the grandkids. That car was a whammer-jammer to the end.

Home is wherever I’m with you

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Time is an ever-sliding puzzle. You piece together what you can in hopes that everything will fall into place, before it all slips away.

Having pieced together a continuing hodgepodge of permits and visas, such was my seventh year abroad. At long last I was on track for permanent UK residency. Just a couple more years as a self-employed writer and I could broaden my vocational horizons and forever remain. That was the plan.

As I’d discovered during my first time back in the States, home as I knew it no longer was. That world had moved on without me, and me without it.

Of course it was wonderful to see friends and family (who even expressed interest in my stories and pictures) but an odd melancholy soon replaced the novelty of this prodigal’s return. I was a marginal man, a cultural misfit suspended between two societies, who needed to get away. Not that I wasn’t also a misfit in England (still flew Old Glory on the 4th of July) but England was home.

Nowadays I lived in a South London terrace house with close friends who had a room to let. Residing on the third floor like some beatnik cousin the party never stopped, much to my liver’s dismay. Decidedly libertine at times, surprisingly genteel at others, it was some kind of life, with weekends in the country, holidays on the Continent, and evenings at the Lamb & Flag with the best mates there ever were.

Granted, some months were more flush than others. While the growing collage of rejection slips plastered to my wall (for unsolicited manuscripts) served as a colorful conversation piece, there were times when the random £100 payments for contract work barely covered rent, groceries, and enough paraffin for the heater to keep my typewriter keys from sticking in the cold of winter.

No matter, just a couple more years and I’d be home free. Then I met Linda.

Bright, lively, the very embodiment of the winsome girl-next-door, I first saw her across the floor at a wedding reception in New England of all places. Straightening out my consignment shop jacket and tie, I ventured over and struck up a conversation, which miraculously led to a date. She came for a visit in April, and a longer one in July, and now we were tangled in a crazy, long-distance relationship. “She’s got brains and beauty,” chided a friend. “What she sees in you I’ll never know.”

When thousands of miles of ocean and half a dozen time zones separate you, new love ain’t easy. In those pre-Skype/pre-Internet days all we had – barring an exorbitant international trunk call – were words on paper to pull us through. Here are a few excerpts from my end:

…It’s the morning after the great Thanksgiving celebration and I’m scratching my head all the way to Strasburg …I, Winslow Pettingell, have a HANGOVER! It went well, everyone had enough to eat and we were all able to shift ’round to more important things… like drinking. Though I cruised through the party with my usual “big boots” something was amiss this year. Friends noticed, couldn’t believe it; I tried to hide it (reputation and all) but my mind and heart were somewhere else… across the pond… with you….

 …Pity you missed the recent weather we’ve been having. There’s nothing on earth like a balmy day here in the Home Counties. The assuaging effect is magic. Now the roses are out in time for your return. With any luck the vegetables in the garden will be ready as well…

 …This is in response to the void in my heart whenever I walk past the flower lady and realize there’s nobody to buy a bunch of mums for…

Thirty years on, it’s plain to see where things were going, and by now there was only a year to go for that permanent residency. She promised she’d wait… but what did that mean? A change in my immigration status wasn’t going to change hers.

Despite a Stateside visit and a New Year’s in Dublin, the future remained uncertain. No demands were made, but romantic relationships are based on intimacy and growth. If you can’t evolve and build memories together, you eventually evolve apart.

I wasn’t afraid of commitment, not with Linda, but giving up these friends and this life would spell the end of a looooooong adventure. To complicate matters she’d been offered a new position down in Washington and … ever wonder how to make an impossible decision? Try changing your perspective.

With the slightest of tweaks the way was suddenly clear. I couldn’t bear the thought of losing her, and Washington, DC could be a grand adventure for the both of us. True, abandoning this hallowed home would be the hardest thing I’ve ever done, but just what is “home” anyway?

Home is where you’re safe and can be yourself. Home is where know you belong. Home, in other words, was wherever I was when I was with Linda. And I’ve been there ever since.

 Home

Released in 2010 as a single from their album, Up from Below, this particular concept of Home was written and recorded (with Alex Ebert and Jade Castrinos sharing vocals) by Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros.

Alabama, Arkansas,
I do love my Ma and Pa
Not the way that I do love you
Well, holy moly me oh my
You’re the apple of my eye
Girl, I’ve never loved one like you
Man, oh, man, you’re my best friend
I scream it to the nothingness
There ain’t nothing that I need
Well, hot and heavy pumpkin pie
Chocolate candy, Jesus Christ
Ain’t nothing please me more than you
[Chorus:]
Home, let me come home
Home is wherever I’m with you
Home, let me come home
Home is wherever I’m with you
La la la la
Take me home
Mama, I’m coming home
I’ll follow you into the park,
Through the jungle, through the dark
Girl, I’ve never loved one like you
Moats and boats, and waterfalls,
Alleyways, and payphone calls
I been everywhere with you (that’s true)
Laugh until we think we’ll die,
Barefoot on a summer night
Never could be sweeter than with you
And in the streets you run afree,
Like it’s only you and me,
Geez, you’re something to see.
[Chorus]
La la la la
Take me home
Mama, I’m coming home
‒ Jade?
‒ Alexander?
‒ Do you remember that day you fell outta my window?
‒ I sure do‒you came jumping out after me.
‒ Well, you fell on the concrete, nearly broke your ass, and you were bleeding all over the place, and I rushed you out to the hospital, you remember that?
‒ Yes, I do.
‒ Well, there’s something I never told you about that night.
‒ What didn’t you tell me?
‒ Well, while you were sitting in the back seat smoking a cigarette you thought was gonna be your last, I was falling deep, deeply in love with you, and I never told you ’til just now!
[Chorus]
Home, let me come home,
Home is wherever I’m with you
Our home, yes, I am home,
Home is when I’m alone with you
Alabama, Arkansas,
I do love my Ma and Pa
Moats and boats, and waterfalls,
Alleyways, and payphone calls
Home is when I’m alone with you!
Home is when I’m alone with you

 

 

‘Cause this fine old world it keeps spinnin’ around

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If you’re in the right place sometimes the world will revolve around you. In 1987 that was certainly my impression of the Blake Building in downtown DC. Rising above the Farragut North Metro Station, 1025 Connecticut Ave and its environs offered a perpetual brush with history.

It was the year of Broadcast News and the lunchtime pavement teemed with those who delivered the news – rumpled newsman David Brinkley for instance – and those who made it, such as Robert Bork. Nominated to the Supreme Court in July, by summer’s end rejection seemed imminent – as confirmed by his sullen expression while waiting for a ride.

This was also the summer of the Iran-Contra Scandal and during a quick nosh at Duke Zeibert’s across the street (that chicken-in-a-pot special of theirs ruined two of my favorite ties) I saw Colonel Oliver North’s attorney, Brendan Sullivan (“I’m not a potted plant. I’m here as the lawyer”) genially seated by… a potted plant.

As for Ollie himself, he was much slighter without the medals and ribbons. We’d regularly share an elevator in the Blake Building, where his offices were a few floors above mine. But while I churned out trade magazine pieces on a Canon Typestar 110 (“the latest in typewriter development”) and dreamed of the day when my company would spring for a DOS word processor, he and his fellow defendants were up there examining classified government documents with “tempest tested” spy-proof computers.

From an historical perspective, perhaps the most thrilling episode was when Soviet Premier Michael Gorbachev’s motorcade screeched to a halt on its way to the White House, right outside my window, and a smiling “Gorby” stepped out of his boxy ZIL limousine to shake hands with the crowd. I caught that one on camera.

Still, from a personal perspective, nothing compares to a revelation about a colleague in the office.

As writer and editor, I rarely got a chance to mingle with those in advertising sales. Then one day we were forced to evacuate our building. Whether it had something to do with the goings-on upstairs or the Secret Service field office discreetly located across the street, someone called in a threat and there went the next few hours.

Dapper, in his early 70s, and with an indiscernible accent, word had it that Ilya was a retired biochemist who spoke seven languages and had taught at Oxford. Intrigued, I suggested a cup of coffee down the street. “Oh I taught there for years,” he said, “and I still maintain a healthy income from patents on my soybean fermentation process, but Winslow, it’s important to keep your mind active. That’s why I’m here.”

I mentioned that I’d lived in England myself. “There are still some things to attend to in London, so my girlfriend, Linda and I are going back for a visit. But first we’re going to spend a few days in Paris, and (shhhh) I’m going to ask her to marry me.”

“Of course you must propose in French.”

Since the one thing I can say in French is that I don’t speak it (Je ne parle pas Français) he grabbed a napkin and wrote out a little script, dropping by my office from time to time to see if I’d learned it by heart: Savez-vous pourquoi nous sommes ici? Je voudrais que tu sois ma femme (“Do you know why we’re here? I’d like you to be my wife.”).

It wasn’t quite how I’d have put it in English, but his was a more paternal generation and I didn’t have the wherewithal to soften it. I was therefore much relieved that producing a ring and phonetically reciting my script on the steps of Sacre Couer still resulted in a joyous, “Oui.” After we were married Linda and I moved to Toronto and I lost touch with Ilya.

Considering his age I wasn’t surprised to see that he’d died in 1995. What did surprise me however, was the astonishing number of Google listings his name brought up, starting with a 1949 issue of Life Magazine.

Entitled Mr. Lucky Has a Roman Holiday, there was an article about deported mobster, Lucky Luciano who shared a suite of rooms in one of Rome’s best hotels with a ballerina, Signora Igea Lissoni, and his “good friend Ilya, a onetime New York press agent” who was recuperating in bed after an auto crash … And there was Ilya, 40 years younger but eminently recognizable, being read to by the Godfather of Organized Crime.

Then there were the other assorted listings, mostly newspaper clippings, and it was with an increasingly jaundiced (though fascinated) eye that I worked my way through them.

Taking it all at face value one was to surmise that Ilya was born in London to parents who held Russian passports but were of English descent. As a violin prodigy at age eight, he toured Europe in concerts conducted by Sir John Barbirolli, and went on to study Philosophy at the Sorbonne.

By the mid-1930s, he was assistant conductor at Teatro Alla Scala in Milan. Then he worked for a PR firm in New York, where he created a winning campaign for the Brazilian Coffee Import Bureau to convince Americans to drink more coffee.

In the decades that followed he was identified as a London-based music and stage director, the president of a major food processing company in Florida, an artist, a hotel/night club owner in Cozumel, a symphony composer, an Austin-based art promoter, a world-class chess tournament sponsor/organizer, a Washington-based auto dealer (in which he utilized his knowledge of Russian, Japanese, German, Italian, French, Spanish, and Portuguese to sell Volvos to foreign diplomats), an Oxford professor and biochemist… C’est la vie.

At a time when truth and honesty have become increasingly elastic concepts it’s not hard for your garden variety cynic to separate what Ilya said he was from what he surely was – mobster, bon vivant, hotel/night club owner, art maven, car salesman, linguist, confidence man. I knew him when he was in advertising sales.

Whoever he was, his was an interesting journey and naturally I’m reminded of this Dean Kay/ Kelly Gordon song, most famously sung by Sinatra, who’d chummed around with Lucky Luciano himself, back in the day.

That’s Life

That’s life (that’s life) that’s what people say
You’re riding high in April
Shot down in May
But I know I’m gonna change that tune
When I’m back on top, back on top in June

I said, that’s life (that’s life) and as funny as it may seem
Some people get their kicks
Stompin’ on a dream
But I don’t let it, let it get me down
‘Cause this fine old world it keeps spinnin’ around

I’ve been a puppet, a pauper, a pirate
A poet, a pawn and a king
I’ve been up and down and over and out
And I know one thing
Each time I find myself flat on my face
I pick myself up and get back in the race

That’s life (that’s life) I tell ya, I can’t deny it
I thought of quitting, baby
But my heart just ain’t gonna buy it
And if I didn’t think it was worth one single try
I’d jump right on a big bird and then I’d fly

I’ve been a puppet, a pauper, a pirate
A poet, a pawn and a king
I’ve been up and down and over and out
And I know one thing
Each time I find myself layin’ flat on my face
I just pick myself up and get back in the race

That’s life (that’s life) that’s life
And I can’t deny it
Many times I thought of cuttin’ out but my heart won’t buy it
But if there’s nothing shakin’ come here this July
I’m gonna roll myself up in a big ball and die
My, my

 

 

These are the days…

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I came of age in our nation’s Bicentennial year. Celebrating with beloved friends and angels, I raised my glass to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, which had recently granted 18 year olds the right to drink. If we were old enough to fight for our country, we were old enough to have a beer. But now the fighting was over, the draft abolished … it was a glad wrinkle in time.

It was also a time when people wrote letters and as a college freshman in Boston I maintained a lively correspondence with my sister in San Francisco.  Naturally the merest hint of an invitation was all it took to envisage myself rolling across the transcontinental pathway come summer like some latter day Woody Guthrie, or John Steinbeck, or Jack Kerouac…

Working double shifts in the dining hall,  I found a posting on the Student Union ride board.   Ella and her friend, Shirley were going to Eugene, Oregon and wanted someone to split the cost and share the driving. “You know it’s over 500 miles from San Francisco, don’t you?”  Hey, it looked close enough on a map. Figuring to hitch that final leg I was ready to roll.

Written years later by Natalie Merchant and Robert Buck, and performed by 10,000 Maniacs on their album, Our Time In Eden – and as an alternative to its intended meaning about falling in love – for me this song captures a bit of the venturesome euphoria found in tying your dad’s old army duffel to the roof of a careworn Plymouth Duster, with $200 in your pocket and a head full of unlikely notions…

These are the days.
These are days you’ll remember. 
Never before and never since, I promise, will the whole world be warm as this. 
And as you feel it, you’ll know it’s true that you are blessed and lucky. 
It’s true that you are touched by something that will grow and bloom in you. 
These are days you’ll remember. 
When May is rushing over you with desire to be part of the miracles you see in 
Every hour. 
You’ll know it’s true that you are blessed and lucky. 
It’s true that you are touched by something that will grow and bloom in you. 
These are days. 
These are the days you might fill with laughter until you break. 
These days you might feel a shaft of light make its way across your face. 
And when you do you’ll know how it was meant to be. 
See the signs and know their meaning. 
It’s true, you’ll know how it was meant to be. 
Hear the signs and know they’re speaking to you, to you.

That $200 represented my life’s savings so I’d planned to economize by fasting the entire way – I also just wanted to see if I could do it – until Ella asked if we could stop at her grandparents’ house in Scranton for lunch. Second helpings of stuffed lamb chops and green beans made up for any lost time in my book, and I have yet to get back to that fast. Even better, the stuffed gorilla that had taken up half the back seat all morning had been a present for Ella’s niece. Now there was room to stretch out….

Back on the road I came to appreciate just how looooooong the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania is and was happy to take the wheel somewhere north of Pittsburgh. Relaxing in the cozy space I’d established in back, Ella began to roll a joint. “You smoke right?” I explained how it mucked up my situational awareness, said I’d pass, and regaled them with past escapades. Plenty of time for that. Around sunset we pulled into a Motel 6 in Youngstown, Ohio, split the $9 fare three ways, and took our turns – 25 cents “for your comfort and relaxation” – on the Magic Fingers vibrating bed.

The next morning the girls felt ill after a Stuckey’s stop. Thankful not to have gone with the Breakfast Special, I put in a good 10 hours of driving through Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and into Iowa when the ‘herb superb’ appeared again to “settle the queasiness,” and Shirley said she felt okay to drive. Immediately falling asleep, I woke up when the car slowed to a crawl. “Everything okay?” Shirley was bent over the wheel looking at the sky.

“They’re talking about tornadoes on the radio,” she was more intent on watching the clouds on the horizon than the road beneath us. Even I could see that the distant sky was taking on a greenish-yellow hue. But ‘distant’ was the optimal word. I offered to take the wheel, stepped on it, and we made it all the way to Council Bluffs.

This time we pulled into a Depression-era motor court with a chain of cabins, each with an open-faced garage. Seeing that they charged by the head I told Ella to stay down in back while Shirley and I went in to register, which didn’t endear us to the canny proprietor. “And what about the person hiding in your car?” Like sneaking into drive-ins, this was not a Boy Scout move.

That motor court, those Magic Fingers, even some of the route numbers are now gone, as is a time of life when price and novelty took precedence over comfort and new-fashioned amenity.

Geographically we hadn’t hit the halfway point, but with the eastern traffic behind us we could go farther faster and set our sites on Salt Lake City, Utah, a day’s drive from Eugene. We might have made it too, had it not been for a blowout somewhere around the chilly Great Divide in Wyoming. Of course changing the tire meant emptying the trunk and I was reminded why my duffel was on the roof.

“I see you’ve got a tent.” I’d replaced the tire and was repacking the trunk. “It’s getting dark. Why not camp here and get an early start in the morning?”

Ella loaned me her sleeping bag and the girls slept in the relative warmth of the car. As there were no stakes I anchored the tent with some ski boots. This was no Boy Scout move either, but it worked, until the tent collapsed under half a foot of snow. “Hey,” I banged on the windshield, “remember what I said about that early start?”

There was heavy snowfall around Salt Lake City and our last 400 miles were spent on a two-lane highway (Route 20) through the Cascades. But we rolled into Eugene with time enough for beer, pizza, a hot shower and a good night’s sleep in the bungalow the girls were sharing with friends. Up early, I made a sign for SAN FRAN over a cup of coffee and hugged Shirley goodbye. Then Ella gave me a lift to the I-5 onramp, hugged goodbye and – such is the way of the road – that was the last I’ve heard of them.

Five hundred miles seems a lot further when you’re looking at a road instead of a map.  I wasn’t sure what to expect when I hoisted my sign, certainly not the rusty ’55 Chevy Bel Air with balding tires that immediately pulled over. Driven by a no-nonsense hippie chick who told me to throw my duffel in the trunk, there were also a couple of guys in the car. “How far are you going?” I eased into the back seat.

“All the way to San Francisco,” said the driver. “This thing has a habit of stalling and I could use the extra help to pop the clutch. Looks like we’re okay this time,” she pulled onto the highway. The guy in front told me he was a musician, while the older, bearded guy next to me said he was a hobo who’d “been everywhere.”

Cruising along at 60 mph there was surprisingly little conversation, except after a couple of rest breaks when we each manned an open door and, “one, two, three, push,” got the car rolling fast enough for the driver to pop the clutch.

At one point my hobo compatriot opened a loaf of Wonder Bread he’d picked up at the last stop and offered me a slice. “This reminds me of when I was kid,” he breathed in the aroma before rolling the bread into a ball and eating it like a roll. “It builds strong bodies 12 ways ya ‘know. Ain’t nothin’ like Wonder Bread, especially with a nice cold glass of milk.”  …These are days you’ll remember…

The sun was setting as we pushed the car through the Bay Bridge tollbooth. “California here I am!” Hopping out near the waterfront I found a dive bar, ordered a beer, took a deep quaff, and called my sister from a pay phone on the wall. “We’ll meet you there,” she said. “Enjoy that beer, and just so you know, in California the drinking age is 21.”

 

If I had the chance I’d ask the world to dance…

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I suppose you could call this another ‘tale of the venturesome gene’ in which dopamine receptor DRD4-7R, renders those splendid drips of madness that impel a certain percentage of us to want to “ask the world to dance.” I’ve written in the past about its sudden appearance in the human genome about 40,000 years ago. But where did it come from? Well, amid many competing theories here’s what I think:

If you’re of Asian or European descent it’s widely accepted that your early ancestors wandered out of Africa some 50 millennia ago. Stirred by adverse conditions, this particular group of “proto modern” Homo sapiens crossed the Arab Peninsula into Persia and encountered their distant Homo neanderthalensis cousins along the way.

Contrary to popular portrayal, Neanderthals – who’d inhabited Europe and Asia for thousands of years –had larger brains than the humans. They also used advanced tools, buried their dead, painted pictures, crafted jewelry, cooked vegetables with their meat, and even created musical instruments, including a precursor to the bagpipes. What forced their displacement is unknown, but paleontologists speculate that rather than dying in battle they may simply have lost out to humankind’s superior ability to copulate-and-repopulate.

Which brings us to the key issue at hand, S-E-X. Unless you’re of pure African descent, you’ve got a spot ‘o Neanderthal DNA in ‘yer makeup. And whether it was a massive orgy between the species or, after a steamy midnight on the oasis we all share the same Neanderthal grandparent to the 250th degree, the results were like a shot of Vitamin B-12 for much of the human race.

Within a tick of the evolutionary clock the speed of cultural progress accelerated from 0 to 100 when, farther along the migration route in the steppes of Central Asia, the appearance of straight-limbed, Anatomically Modern Humans (AMH) spelled the beginning of a “great leap forward.” Taller, sturdier, and more muscular than their human forebears, with broad, upright faces and a cranial capacity greater than ours today, these amped AMH ladies and lads were by far the most adaptive, resourceful beings the world had thus far seen.

Theirs was truly modern human behavior, which included an ability to innovate and plan, and a capacity for abstract thought. With this they invented the concept of time, which they measured in lunar phases. And amidst the waxing and waning of many a moon they invented agricultural techniques, domesticated animals, engaged in religious rituals, and created various forms of art.

Galvanized by advances in technology and especially language, and with a righteous abundance of physical and mental energy, their immediate descendants displayed all the hallmarks of that venturesome gene. Beset by an urgent desire to explore, some journeyed west to populate Europe; others east to inhabit much of Asia; and still others north through Siberia and across the Bering land bridge to settle the Americas.

As geneticists will tell you, the quickest way to acquire an adaptive biological advantage is through introgression, i.e. the transfer of genetic information from one species to another. Though the best-held opinion has it that the “great leap” was fueled by just such a genetic “transfer” somewhere on the Arabian Peninsula, additional coupling in later generations is also a possibility.

Along with other hominids, Neanderthals continued to co-exist with our randy AMH ancestors for another 10 millennia, until their species finally died out in the caves of Gibraltar around 24,000 years ago. Ranging from 1 to 4 percent of our genetic makeup, how much of their DNA remains in us varies – personally I’m in the 94th percentile of 23andMe customers – as does its significance to our contemporary lives. A biological trait survives the natural selection process because it offers an adaptive strength, but not all traits are favorable at all times.

Say you’ve inherited a certain venturesome streak and the world you inhabit no longer finds it laudable to throw caution to the wind and act on a sudden flash of insight, or has little need for that restless yearning to explore new places, practices, foods, libations, ideas, opportunities, and relationships.

In that case perhaps you’ll empathize with the frenzied sentiments of Billy Idol and Tony James in a song first performed in 1979 by their band, Generation X.  Oh, and here’s to Petra, one of the best dance partners ever.  None of this “dancing with myself” stuff back when we were in high school.

Dancing With Myself

On the floors of Tokyo

A-down in London Town’s a go go

A-with the record selection,

And the mirror’s reflection,

I’m a dancin’ with myself

A-when there’s no one else in sight,

A-in crowded lonely night

Well, I wait so long for my love vibration

And I’m dancing with myself

Oh oh, Dancing with a-myself,

Oh, oh, dancing with myself

Well, there’s nothing to lose

And there’s nothing to prove, well,

Dancing a-with myself

If I looked all over the world

And there’s every type of girl

But your empty eyes seem to pass me by

And leave me dancin’ with myself.

So let’s sink another drink

Cause it’ll give me time to think

If I had the chance I’d ask the world to dance

And I’ll be dancin’ with myself

Oh oh, Dancing with a-myself,

Oh, oh, dancing with myself

Well, there’s nothing to lose

And there’s nothing to prove, well,

Dancing a-with myself

Well if I looked all over the world

And there’s every type of girl

But your empty eyes seem to pass me by

And leave me dancin’ with myself.

So let’s sink another drink

Cause it’ll give me time to think

If I had the chance I’d ask the world to dance

And I’ll be dancin’ with myself

Oh oh, Dancing a-with myself,

Oh, oh, dancing with myself

If I had the chance I’d ask the world to dance

If I had the chance I’d ask the world to dance

If I had the chance I’d ask the world to dance

Oh, oh, oh, oh oh

Oh, oh, oh dancin’ with myself.

Oh, oh, dancin’ with myself, oh, oh,

Sweat, sweat, etc.