The big storm has come and gone through Narragansett Bay and this weekend promises to be a fine one in the charming city of Newport where my niece’s much-anticipated early November wedding is thankfully slated to proceed pretty much on schedule.
Fittingly for such a social occasion, early November once marked the beginning of le Train Bleu season (in the 1920s and ‘30s), when many a shivering socialite escaped the raw British weather to bask on the French Rivera. After taking the club train from Victoria Station to Dover and enduring the ferry crossing to Calais, the likes of Coco Chanel, Somerset Maugham, the Prince of Wales (and the erstwhile Mrs. Simpson), Winston Churchill, Evelyn Waugh, Charlie Chaplin, F. Scott Fitzgerald, etc., would then board the Calais-Mediterranée Express, known colloquially as the Blue Train (“le Train Bleu”) in light of its (all first-class) dark blue sleeping cars.
Soon the mainly Mayfair contingent would find itself firmly ensconced on the Riviera in a “frantic, addleheaded search for amusement” that invariably led to many a “marvelous” party. A prominent fixture of Le Train Bleu Society was most assuredly English playwright, actor, composer and singer, Noel Coward who wrote today’s selection after he and his good friend Beatrice Lille attended a beach party given by American gossip columnist, Elsa Maxwell.
First performed by Lillie in Coward’s revue “Set to Music” in 1939 it would later become a part of his celebrated 1950s cabaret act, with many of the lyrics reflecting actual experiences. For example, Coward and Lillie were apparently invited to “come as they were” but upon arrival they discovered that the other guests were all formally dressed, which explains why it was “Hell” to stay as they were, while “Poor Grace” refers to renowned opera singer Grace Moore, who was also a guest at the party.
Coward wrote and recorded nearly 300 songs, and this wry reflection on how “people’s behaviour away from Belgravia would make you aghast…” is one of the most enduring.
LISTEN TO TODAY’S SELECTION – Friday 2 November
I’ve Been to a Marvelous Party
Quite for no reason
I’m here for “the season”
And high as a kite
Living in error
With Maud at Cap Ferret
Which couldn’t be right
Everyone’s here and frightfully gay
Nobody cares what people say
Though the Riviera
Seems really much queerer
Than Rome at its height
On Wednesday night…
I went to a marvelous party
With Nounou and Nada and Nell
It was in the fresh air
And we went as we were
And we stayed as we were
Which was Hell
Poor Grace started singing at midnight
And didn’t stop singing till four
We knew the excitement was bound to begin
When Laura got blind on Dubbonet and gin
And scratched her veneer with a Cartier pin
I couldn’t have liked it more…
I’ve been to a marvelous party
We played the most wonderful game
Maureen disappeared and came back in a beard
And we all had to guess at her name…
Old Cecil arrived wearing armour
Some shells and a black feather boa
Poor Millicent wore a surrealist comb
Made of bits of mosaic from St. Peter’s in Rome
But the weight was so great that she had to go home
I couldn’t have liked it more…
People’s behaviour
Away from Belgravia
Would make you aghast
So much variety
Watching society
Scampering past
If you have any mind at all
Gibbon’s divine “Decline and Fall”
Sounds pretty flimsy
No more than a whimsy
By way of contrast
On Wednesday last…
I’ve been to a marvelous party
I must say the fun was intense
We all had to do
What the people we knew
Might be doing a hundred years hence
We talked about growing old gracefully
And Elsie, who’s seventy-four
Said, A, it’s a question of being sincere
And B, if you’re supple you’ve noting to fear
Then she swung upside down from a glass chandelier
I couldn’t have liked it more
I’ve been to a marvelous party
We didn’t start dinner till ten
And young Bobbie Carr
Did a stunt at the bar
With a lot of extraordinary men
Poor Frieda arrived with a turtle
Which shattered us all to the core
The Duchess passed out at a quarter to three
And suddenly Cyril screamed “Fiddle-dee-dee!”
And ripped off his trousers and jumped in the sea
I couldn’t have liked it more
I’ve been to a marvelous party
Elise made an entrance…with May
You’d never have guessed
From her fisherman’s vest
That her bust had been whittled away
Poor Lulu got fried on Chianti
And talked about esprit de corps
Louise made a couple of passes at Gus
And Freddie, who hates any kind of a fuss
Did half the Big Apple and twisted his truss
I couldn’t have liked it more